Slice Build Guide

  1. Included Parts
  2. Items Needed
  3. Necessary Tools
  4. Building the Slice
    1. Pro Micro Firmware
    2. Separate Boards
    3. Diodes
    4. (RGB) 510 Ohm Resistors
    5. (RGB) 0.1uF Capacitors
    6. (RGB) LEDs
    7. TRRS and Reset Switches
    8. Pro Micros
    9. (RGB) OLED Installation
    10. (RGB) Test LEDs
    11. (RGB) LED Order
    12. Test Board
    13. Switches
    14. Acrylic Sandwich
    15. Add Bump-ons

Included Parts


Pro Micro

Tactile Switch and TRRS Jack


Acrylic Set

acrylic set


Rubber Bump-ons

(RGB Kit) 510 Ohm Resistors

(RGB Kit) YS-SK6812MINI-E Leds

(RGB Kit) 0.1uF Capacitors

(RGB Kit) SSD1306 OLEDs

Please check the parts list before you begin.

(Slice RGB) RGB Kit

Items Needed

Necessary Tools

Building the Slice

🗹 (Optional) Pro Micro BMP Reinforcement with Epoxy Resin (as of 2/5/2021 Most pro micros sent are already reinforced)

  • It takes some time to dry so let’s do it first. Also, please read the instructions for drying time of the epoxy.
  1. Spread resin around the jack but make sure it does not enter.
  2. Make sure not to flow any into the usb jack of the pro micro.

🗹 Pro Micro Firmware

Pro Micros come pre-flashed with VIA Firmware.

Please refer to the following guide for flashing firmware.

🗹 Separate left and right sides

If not separated for shipping the boards will need to be separated.

  1. Fold the pcb’s in on themselves to separate.
  2. Use a diagonal pliers or cutters to cut the excess.
  3. Sand down the pcb if needed.

🗹 Install diodes.

  • It may be hard to see but if you look close the diode will have a direction.
  • Line on the diode must go in the direction of the arrow as shown.
  • If the diode is difficult to see look at it in a bright light or use a magnifying glass.
  • If the diode is in the wrong direction the key will not work.
  1. Pre-solder one diode pad.
  2. With the tweezers in one hand and the iron in the other, place the diode. Melting the solder on the pre-soldered pad.
  3. Solder the other pad so both pads are soldered.
  4. Check from the side to see that the diode isn’t floating and is flat against the pcb on both sides.

Skip RGB Section

🗹 (RGB) 510 Ohm Resistors

  1. Install the 510 ohm resistors into R1 and R4 (no specific orientation)

🗹 (RGB) 0.1uF Capacitors

  • Above half of the leds are 0.1uF capacitors, which have no specific direction. (See C66 in below image)
  • Apply no-clean flux if necessary.
  1. Apply solder to one pad.
  2. Install capacitor.
  3. Apply solder to the other pad.

🗹 (RGB) LEDs

  • No-clean flux recommended.
  • Drag soldering recommended.
  • These LEDs are chained, if one is not installed correctly the others will not work.
  • Lower Temperature recommended.
  1. From the bottom view, align the notch (GND) to G on the pcb.
  2. Apply no-clean flux.
  3. Apply a small amount of solder to your iron.
  4. Drag the iron over one side while holding down the led with your tweezers.
  5. Drag the iron over the other side.

🗹 Install TRRS and Reset Switches

  • Solder one hole of the TRRS jack and to make sure it is flush against the pcb.
  • Reheat and push down on the jack to ensure it is flush with the pcb if necessary.
  1. Push the reset switches into place on the backside of the pcbs.
  2. Place the TRRS jacks and put masking tape over to prevent movement of the TRRS jack.
  3. Flip to the front side of the pcb to solder.

🗹 Install pro micros

  • No-clean flux recommended.
  • Pro Micro build is similar to the Helix or the Corne. See the Helix build guide here.
  • Installing the orientation wrong or using too much force could lead to pins ejecting or pin bending.
  • Removable pro micro tricks can work here too, you can look them up online incase you ever want to replace your pro micro.
  1. Solder the spring loaded header to the pro micro, making sure the bottom side faces upward (Non-RGB, long side into the PCB)
  2. The smaller windows should be on the Pro Micro side. Also, install so both sets of headers have the small windows facing the same orientation.
  3. Insert the pro micro into the through-hole pads.
  4. It should lock into place without soldering, but I recommend soldering the other side.

Skip RGB Section


  • Installation of Oleds is nearly identical to the Corne or the Helix.
  1. Short the 4 jumpers on both pcbs. We are giving thanks to @foostan and others who helped trailblaze this design.
  2. Solder the risers into place. (Masking tape recommended)
  3. Solder the 4pin header onto the oled.
  4. Push the oled into the riser.

🗹 (RGB) Test LEDs (See LED Order Below)

  1. Test your work by plugging the usb into one half or the other half. See also the Corne Cherry Build Guide.
  2. If you plug in right hand only the last LED may not light up by default even though it’s working. Test with both hands connected together.
  3. LEDs will all glow red if correctly soldered. You may have to go into VIA to turn on a solid color.
  4. You can toggle the leds on and off by hitting the bottom most left key.
This is a rev0 not a rev1.

🗹 LED Order and Reflowing LEDs

  1. If some are not glowing you’ll need to reflow the LEDs
  2. LEDs are chained together in this order so you find the next LED in the chain to reflow.
  3. If after a few reflow attempts an LED happens to be bad (It happens) you may need to replace it all together. Use of an SMD rework station is recommended.

🗹 Test Board

  1. Test the board with a tweezers. Make sure all switches are functioning. Use the VIA key tester or another key tester to make sure.

🗹 Switches and Stabilizers

  1. Peel the top plate paper to reveal the clear acrylic on both sides of each board.
  2. Install stabilizers to the pcb first. Note Non-RGB Slice: Durock and Zeal stabilizer housings may be too big and not allow the acrylic to sit properly and the switches to sit firm to the pcb. GMK Screw-in are recommended.
  3. Set the top plate over the stablilizers.
  4. Insert the switches into the top plate. You may have to solder a few. The 3mm acrylic is big and it’s okay if it is touching the pcb at this point.
  5. Solder the switches into place.

🗹 Acrylic Sandwich

  1. Screw the four 7mm or 10mm spacers to next to the pro micros for the oled/pro micro display protecting plate.
  2. Screw the 7mm spacers to the backplate.
  3. Screw the top plate screws into place to complete the sandwich case.
  4. Gently push down on the switches to even out the acrylic if necessary.
  5. Install the display protecting plate.

🗹 Add Bump-ons

  1. Install bump-ons


QMK: Write your own firmware, PC

QMK Toolbox

One of the great things about about self-made keyboards is customizing your firmware the way you like. This article will introduce the simplest way of updating your firmware using QMK Toolbox.

Download QMK Toolbox

Let’s start here, open the following site:

  1. Download “qmk_toolbox.exe” for Windows or “” for Mac.

Install Toolbox

  1. Double-click the qmk_toolbox.exe
  2. For windows 10 when you receive this pop-up hit click execute.
  1. When the installation completes you’ll see this screen.

Default Hex/QMK Configurator

  1. If you want a default keymap, you can use the toolbox and choose basekeys/slice/rev1 or basekeys/slice/rev1_rgb from
  2. If you want a custom keymap, you can use the QMK configurator.

Enable Auto-Flash and Flash when ready

Reset the pro micro

  1. Reset the pro micro by pushing the reset button.
  2. Reset the pro micro by shorting RST and GND.

You’re all set

OLED Pin Replacement Ez Mode (R2 GB Not Necessary)

OLED will need their pins replaced with the low profile pins provided. Here is an easy way of accomplishing this:

Pics to come

You’ll need.

  • Solder Sucker or Desoldering gun.
  • Third Hand (Optional)

Unwrap the OLED display from its original bag. You’ll notice a set of 4 pins already attached. Let’s remove them. Here are the steps:

  1. Take your snips and pinch them in between the pins to separate the pins individually.
  2. Take a solder sucker to the top solder joints and remove the solder as best as possible.
  3. Heat up one pin at a time from the top and use your snips to pull each pin downward one at a time.
  4. After all pins are removed, remove any excess solder from the holes of the OLED
  5. Take the new low profile pins and insert them into the oled holes.
  6. Slide the pin set in from the bottom. Solder the new pins on the top of the OLED.
  7. Finished!

Note: I found that once the pins are separated from their black plastic housing they will remove very easily instead of struggling to remove them all at once as a unit. Once the black plastic is cut between the pins may fall off which will help when finding an area to grab onto the pins with a pinch or a snips.